Squid Kitchen are the latest pop-up to set up shop at Tottenham Social, the street food residencies held at Craving Coffee on Thursday and Friday nights. You’ll find them there tonight, and throughout February.
Founded just a year ago by Sarah Rippon, the concept is based on Spanish tapas, inspired by the squid sandwiches sold in the markets of Madrid.
The stall has become a familiar face on the London food market scene in a short space of time. They began at Brick Lane and have since made appearances in Chelsea, Brixton, Clapham and Peckham.
A firm friendship was forged when Sarah found herself pitched beside the guys from Craving Coffee at Chestnuts Market in Chestnuts Park, leading to a short residency at their N15 home base last year.
The Squid Kitchen brand will also be familiar to those who frequent Beavertown Brewery as they’ve previously served food at the Saturday tap rooms there.
On the stalls, they’ve focused on their signature squid sandwich and squid cone, but the Tottenham Social residency required a fuller selection.
Each week, Sarah will therefore be serving up a different menu, including familiar tapas dishes such as tortilla, patatas bravas and pimentos de padron, alongside the signature squid dishes. This will be followed by a Pintxos menu next week, including black pudding and blue cheese.
To celebrate Beavertown’s imminent fourth birthday, there’ll be a beer-themed Spanish burger menu in week three, concluding with a ‘greatest hits’ of the previous weeks on their final days.
What’s the food actually like? Well, the signature dish, the Squid Cone, is a conical creation filled with rings and tentacles, lemon and aioli: absolutely divine.
Bocadillo de chorizo, a pepper and chorizo open sandwich, and the tortilla, jam-packed with potato and the fiery Spanish ham, came next. The meat in both was soft and spicy and complemented the piquillo peppers, manchego and paprika perfectly.
Also recommended? Pimentos de padron, the moreish Spanish peppers fried in oil and salt, and patatas bravas, twice-cooked potatoes topped in tomato and paprika with aioli. Delicious.
I had been seduced by the idea of Squid Kitchen a few weeks ago and yesterday I finally made my way to Craving Coffee to check it out. Unfortunately it wasn’t all it was made out to be. Yes, the atmosphere was lovely, and yes the Bocadillo de chorizo was pretty tasty(although you can’t really go wrong with chorizo on sourdough bread)… but we found ourselves completely undazzled with the flavourless iconic squid cone and patatas bravas. If the menu hadn’t told us it was squid, we wouldn’t have known as the greasy batter was so overwhelming. Even then we probably wouldn’t have minded so much if the meal hadn’t been completely overpriced compared to the taste and size of the dishes. Sorry, better luck next time!